It is raining today. It is not the sort of rain that stands out in the open and yells in your face "I'M HERE! rather the sort that sneeks around the corner and spits on your shoes. It is a weak rain, if it were my shower I would complain to the management about the water pressure. But that does not hide the soft beauty of it all. It transfixes the city from a hot blistering furnace to this wonderful cooling but warm shower (there is that washing reference again ). The rain is just like that , a warm shower. It is glorious.
I absolutely love Hanoi, have I said that before? The centre of the city, it's heart is vibrant, alive and kicking. People arush about thier daily lives intersprersed with foriegners wandering around radomly like some life like pinballs. It is a feast for a people watcher, you can see all of life's story walk past in less than 5 minutes. It is inspiring and uplifting to absorb this. The suburbs are another thing entirely, each has its own character. Some of it is not pretty, but that is because it is a city and cities are harsh and ugly in places. That takes nothing from the people who live there, they are warm, loving and are happily living their lives as everyone does. I have not seen abject poverty in my face but I have seen the honesty and dignity of ordinary people living ordinary lives. I respect them for that.
The first days of my Grand Tour have been filled with liesurely activity. I am keeping to my vow not to get stressed or try to push things. "To get things done" as they say. Who are these "theys" anyway? I will have no truck with them. I have done no siteseeing at all. I have been there and have done that. What I am doing now is getting to know the ordinary Hanoi. The workaday, regular lifestyle. It says nothing really but it is exactly the same no matter which country you are in, the only difference is culture and that is as it should be. I have had some really great experiences. I spent a day watching Aussie Rules football played by enthusiastic young men from 5 South East Asian Countries: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. There were a fair smattering of enthusiastic young expats, Irish and Aussie as well. A really good day was had. Vietnam beat Cambodia in the grand final which means they win the Asian Cup for 2017. My friends set up a food stall there. I spent most of the time sitting or standing in front of a fan. It was an overcast day yet I still got badly burnt. At my age I don't have to worry about skin cancer but I really hate getting burnt because of the pain and discomfort. My face feels like a stretched balloon. I also have had the considerable honour of attending a child's first birthday party. It was at the home of my friend Mr Vuong's friends. We sat down to a huge banquet. It centred around a big dish of broth into which was put 3 different types of meat, seafood, prawns and pippies and vegetables including a large variety of mushrooms. It was scrumptuous.
Every evening has finished at the Irish Wolfhound. It is my favorite spot in Hanoi. It has 2 huge windows that act like huge television screens. If I want to change the channel I just move windows. Walking past seems to be the most interesting people in Hanoi. It doesn't matter the time of day the "passing trade' is always fascinating. A friend of mine there is an editor of a local newspaper. He seems to use it as his office. You couldn't get a better location for "feel".
Today I am having the bike serviced, yesterday I had my haircut and on my first day I had my toenails cut. All I need to do after that is get some saddle bags made that will do the job and I am off on the journey. It is going to be very hard to leave Hanoi, the friends here and the draw of the city are very strong. But needs must... the journey begins.